Why graduate Esther is returning to her roots to explore sustainable Nigerian fashion

An international student from the University of Sunderland(@sunderlanduni) has been working with one of West Africa’s largest art galleries to explore how it is supporting the sustainable production of Nigeria’s iconic tie-dye (Adire) fabric.

Esther Moyomola Oludare was born in Akure, Ondo State, Nigeria, and came to the University in February 2023 to study a Master of Business Administration (MBA).

As part of her MBA final year project, Esther wanted to return to her roots and combine her three passions – business, the arts and culture – to explore how the Nike Art Gallery in Osogbo, Osun State, supports the sustainable production of Nigeria’s ancient art of Adire.

The popular textile traditionally dyed with indigo is emblematic of the culture of Yoruba people and is typically used for traditional outfits worn by Nigerians for special occasions, weddings and parties.

The Adire textile industry is mostly made up of small independent traders who are considered to be both entrepreneurs and artists for their products. Esther explored what support is being made available for these business owners and the industry’s environmental sustainability.

Esther said:

“My interest in textiles and fashion is the reason I chose the Nike Art Gallery for my project because it is a pioneer of Adire.

“I was able to learn the importance of culture and the benefit of sustaining the Adire business. Adire is an indigenous craft in Nigeria and mostly in the western part of Nigeria, Osun Osogbo.

“The gallery is helping in the sustainable production of Adire in many ways, such as providing free training for students in the art of Adire, student empowerment programmes which builds more confidence in people, especially women, and using gas instead of burning charcoal in the Adire production process. The gallery also exhibits students’ work in other countries, so their pieces are being sold and exposed internationally.

“All these practices are very important to the Adire industry because it helps create more job opportunities, especially for women, as well as promoting the culture.”

Esther’s busy studying schedule and family commitments meant she was unable to travel to the gallery to carry out her project in person, however, she was able to successfully conduct her interviews and research from Sunderland.

“Working on this project was a really lovely period for me,” Esther said.

“Even though I couldn’t physically be there in person, I really enjoyed the overall process and working with the gallery. Everyone taking part was very cooperative and the management team were able to give me everything I needed.

“This – and by choosing a topic and area I’m passionate about – resulted in me receiving an excellent grade for my project.”

Lawal Saheed, manager of the Nike Art Gallery in Osogbo, said:

“Esther worked hard and persevered to achieve her goal. We would welcome her any time and we are always here if she needs support as she moves forward in her career.”

Esther attended the University of Delta in Abraka, Nigeria, where she graduated with a degree in Fine and Applied Art (Textiles) in 2017.

She then worked as an Administrative and Event Manager for events agency EMC3 Nigeria until 2023 before she moved to Sunderland to study her MBA. 

Earlier this month, Esther was one of thousands of students to take to the stage at the Stadium of Light for the University of Sunderland’s Summer Graduation Ceremonies (July 8 – July 12).

Esther, who graduated with a Distinction, is now working towards setting up her own fashion business.

Ashleigh Blackwood, Lecturer in Professional Practice at the University of Sunderland’s Faculty of Business, Law and Tourism, said:

“Esther’s achievements make our University proud. Her excellent MBA research project, which focuses on sustainability in the Adire textile industry and the role of cultural arts and heritage organisations in supporting business growth in Nigeria, helps us to understand contemporary entrepreneurship in new ways. Her work sits alongside the growing research expertise of our staff working in the field of creative enterprise and also contributes to our University’s dedication to supporting small businesses across the globe.

“I hope that Esther’s work serves as an inspiration to our current and prospective students who want to bring their own creativity into business research and practice and develop an exciting future career for themselves.”

The Nike Art Gallery in Osogbo was established in 1983 by Nike Davies-Okundaye solely from her earnings as an artist. It originally acted as a safe haven for young women who were provided with food and free accommodation. Nike taught them how to use their hands to earn a living through art and now, thousands of young Nigerians have been trained at the gallery. Many African countries now send their students there to study textile art and the gallery also admits students from all over Europe, Cananda and the United States.

International scholars and researchers in traditional African art and culture also visit the gallery for their research works in Adire fabric processing and traditional dyeing methods.

Nike is also the owner and curator of Nike Art Galleries at Lagos, Ogidi-ljumu and Abuja.